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Buddha’s Botanicals Complete Guide

If you live in a colder climate, dahlias can’t stay in the ground through winter. To grow them again next season, the tubers must be dug up, cleaned, divided, and stored properly. In this two-part video series, Brad walks through the full process step by step ... from lifting the clumps to finding the eyes and preparing each tuber for storage.     If you want to watch the full Dahlia series, the video links are at the end of this post.

Part 1: Digging and Cleaning the Dahlia Clumps

Step 1: Clear the Bed - Before digging, make the bed clean and easy to work in. Remove all dead stalks, spent leaves, and any Hortonova netting. This helps you see each clump clearly and prevents damage to the tubers as you dig.

Step 2: Lift the Dahlia Clumps -Use a pitchfork or shovel to gently lift each plant out of the soil. Once lifted, lay the whole clump on top of the bed. Dahlia tubers vary in size and shape ... long and skinny, short and round, or thick and clustered. All are normal.

Step 3: Remove Loose Soil by Hand - Use only your fingers to clean off loose soil. Do not scrape, pry, or bend the tubers, and avoid sharp tools. Dahlia tubers snap easily, especially right after digging. Work your fingers around the clump and let the soil fall away. Keep labels with every clump so you don’t mix varieties.

Step 4: Rinse the Tubers - Once the soil is mostly removed, rinse each clump with a gentle stream of water. As they get cleaner, you’ll be able to see:

·       Broken or damaged tubers

·       Mold or soft spots

·       Old “mother” tubers (darker and thicker)

·       New tubers (light-colored)

 After most of the soil is washed away, let the tubers dry.

Step 5: Dry for 24 - 48 Hours - Tubers must dry completely before splitting or storing. Brad places them outside on a cool, cloudy day for a few hours, then moves them indoors to finish drying in a dark, cool space for another day or two. Once dry, they’re ready for the next step: dividing.

Part 2: How to Split Dahlia Tubers

Most new growers find this step stressful, but once you know what to look for, it becomes simple. A single clump can produce many new plants ... sometimes 10 to 20 per clump.

Understanding Tuber Anatomy

Each dahlia tuber has three main parts:

·       The tuber - the body

·       The neck - the connection between tuber and stem

·       The crown (eye) - the bump at the base of the stem where next year’s new growth begins

A tuber must have an eye to grow a plant. Size doesn’t matter … small tubers grow just as well as large ones.

Step 1: Identify the Eyes - Eyes look like small bumps or tiny growth points on the crown. New tubers are pale in color; older mother tubers are dark and woody. You can keep mother tubers if they have eyes, but many growers discard them because they take up extra space.

Step 2: Make Clean Cuts - Use clean pruners to cut out individual tubers with eyes attached. Sometimes the cuts are simple; other times you must remove entire chunks of the stem to free a tuber. If you accidentally cut through a tuber, don’t stress. One clump produces more than enough.

Step 3: Remove Damaged Tubers - Any tubers that are moldy, shriveled, snapped, or missing a neck should be discarded. They will not grow.

Step 4: Final Trim - Once separated, trim off long roots and extra bits of stem. Each tuber should look clean and simple, with:

·       One tuber

·       One neck

·       One eye

For uncertain tubers, you can keep two connected and plant them together in spring. In Brad’s example, one clump produced 15 healthy tubers, turning one plant into fifteen for the following year.

What’s Next

Now that the tubers are divided, the final step is proper winter storage. That process includes choosing a storage medium, keeping the right temperature and humidity, and checking the tubers throughout winter to prevent rot or shriveling … vermiculite is my preferred storage medium.  

Watch the Full Dahlia Videos

👉 Watch Part 1 here

👉 Watch Part 2 here

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December 2025

It’s been a long season, Buddha fam … and the frost is coming fast. Here in Massachusetts, early November means it’s time to take down our eucalyptus before the cold gets it. This year’s plant grew from a small starter into a massive beauty in just one season, reaching around 8 feet 10 inches tall. Not bad for five months of growth. In our latest Buddha’s Botanicals video, Brad walks through how to harvest eucalyptus branches, how to dry the leaves for potpourri, and how to preserve full branches using a glycerin solution so they stay soft, colorful, and long-lasting. If you want to see the full harvest and preservation process, the video is linked at the end of this post.

Why Harvest Eucalyptus Before Frost?

Eucalyptus is fast-growing and fragrant, but it doesn’t tolerate cold temperatures. Once frost hits, the leaves can brown and the stems can collapse. Harvesting before freezing weather protects the plant material and lets you use every part of it … branches, stems, and leaves. The bonus: freshly cut eucalyptus smells incredible and makes great gifts, shower bundles, and preserved arrangements for the winter months.

What You’ll Need

You need a few things to harvest and preserve eucalyptus:

• Pruning shears

• A pot for boiling water

• Vegetable glycerin

• A tall vase or container

• A hammer or something to lightly smash stems

Step 1: Cut Down the Plant

Once frost is on the way, cut the eucalyptus plant at the base. Eucalyptus grows incredibly fast, so don’t be surprised if yours has thick, sturdy branches by the end of the season. After the main trunk is down, trim off each branch where it meets the main stem. Larger branches may have their own smaller branches … cut those cleanly as well. You’ll be left with long, beautiful eucalyptus stems and piles of loose leaves.

Step 2: Save the Loose Leaves for Drying

All the loose leaves can be dried and used later. Spread them out in a cool, dark place like a basement and let them dry for 10-14 days. Once the leaves are crisp, crumble them to use as potpourri, fire-kettle scent, or natural fragrance around the home.

Step 3: Prepare the Branches for Preservation

If you want long-lasting eucalyptus that stays soft and flexible instead of drying out and becoming brittle, you’ll need a glycerin solution.

Before mixing it:

• Remove leaves from the bottom 4–5 inches of each stem

• Save these leaves with the others to dry later

This bare stem section is what will sit in the glycerin.

Step 4: Make the Glycerin Solution

A proper preservation solution is a 2:1 ratio of hot water and vegetable glycerin.

Here’s Brad’s mix:

• Boil 4 cups of water

• Turn off the heat

• Add 2 cups of vegetable glycerin

Stir until dissolved. Heating the water first helps the glycerin mix smoothly … room-temperature water won’t dissolve it well. Let the solution cool while you finish prepping your stems.

Step 5: Smash the Stems

Before you place eucalyptus into the glycerin, you need to help the stems absorb it. Lightly smash the bottom 2-3 inches of each stem with a hammer or similar tool. You want to crack the fibers, not flatten them completely. The cracks help the glycerin travel up the stem, keeping the leaves soft and preserved.

Step 6: Place Eucalyptus in the Glycerin Solution

Once stems are smashed and the solution is warm (not hot), place the eucalyptus branches into your container. Make sure the smashed ends are fully submerged.

Store the container:

• In a dark area

• At around 50-60°F

• For 2-5 weeks

Two weeks is the minimum for absorption. The longer they sit, the softer and more preserved the eucalyptus becomes. This method keeps the leaves flexible and helps them hold their color far longer than air-drying alone.

Air Drying vs. Glycerin Preservation

You can always dry eucalyptus by simply hanging it. This method is great for shower bundles because the steam brings out the fragrance. But air-dried eucalyptus becomes crispy after a few days and loses its scent quickly. Glycerin-preserved eucalyptus stays soft, colorful, and long-lasting … perfect for home décor, winter arrangements, and gifts.

Watch the Full Eucalyptus Harvest & Preservation Video

Want to see the full harvest, measuring, stem prep, glycerin process, and final setup?

👉 Watch the Youtube video here

👉 Explore more plant care videos on our Buddha’s Botanicals YouTube Channel - youtube.com/@BuddhasBotanicals

Bonus: What to Do With Extra Leaves

All those dried eucalyptus leaves have endless uses:

• Potpourri

• Wood stove kettles

• Drawer or closet sachets

• Crafting

• Adding to homemade winter blends

Nothing goes to waste.

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November 2025

Once all the plants are tucked into the greenhouse for winter, it’s time for one of our favorite tasks of the season: releasing live beneficial bugs. These tiny predators help keep pests like thrips and spider mites under control, especially after bringing plants in from outdoors. In our latest Buddha’s Botanicals video, Brad walks through how we release three types of beneficial insects to protect our tropicals and houseplants all winter long. If you want to watch the full demo, the video link is at the end of this post.

Why Use Beneficial Bugs?

When plants transition from outdoors to the greenhouse, pests can hitch a ride. Instead of spraying chemicals, we use a natural solution: predatory mites and lacewing larvae. These bugs search the plants, hunt down pests, and keep the greenhouse environment balanced. It’s safe, effective, and supports strong plant growth all season long.

What You’ll Need

For this beneficial bug release:

• Breeding packets (predatory mites)

• Lacewing larvae egg cards

• Stratiolaelaps scimitus container (soil-dwelling mites)

• Scissors

• A small scoop or ladle

Step 1: Hang the Breeding Packets

We start with the predatory mite breeding packets. Each packet has a small hole that allows the live mites to crawl out and onto the plant stems over time.

Hang the packets:

• Out of direct sunlight

• On a sturdy stem

• One packet per plant (larger plants may need two)

Inside each packet are live mites, eggs, and food. As they hatch, these beneficial bugs walk out through the hole and begin searching for pests like thrips and spider mites.

Step 2: Add the Lacewing Larvae Cards

Next up: lacewing larvae. These cards contain eggs that hatch into larvae … the stage that actually eats pests.

A few notes:

• The perforated lines won’t tear cleanly because the eggs and food are glued in place.

• Use scissors to cut them apart.

• Each piece can be hung or clipped to a plant stem.

The larvae will hatch, turn from green to gray, then crawl out to feed. Adult lacewings don’t eat pests, but they do lay the next generation of eggs … so you get long-term protection.

Step 3: Add Stratiolaelaps (Schmidus) to the Soil

The last step is treating the soil. Stratiolaelaps scimitus mites (often called “soil predators”) help manage fungus gnat larvae, thrips pupae, and other soil-dwelling pests.

How we apply them:

• Pop open the container

• Gently rotate it to mix the medium so mites are distributed evenly

• Scoop small amounts with a ladle

• Sprinkle around the top layer of soil on each plant

These mites live in the soil and work nonstop to keep pest populations down.

Why We Use DMV Beneficials

Their products are reliable, fresh, and extremely effective … and their customer service is second to none.

👉 Check out DMV Beneficials website here - dmvbeneficials.com

The Full Beneficial Bug Release Setup

This winter we used three types of biological controls:

• Cucumeris mite packets (hung on stems)

• Green lacewing larvae egg cards

• Stratiolaelaps scimitus soil mites

Together they create a balanced, natural pest management system that keeps our greenhouse healthy without chemicals.

Watch the Full Beneficial Bug Release Video

Want to see exactly how we hang the packets, cut the cards, and apply the soil mites?

👉 Watch the YouTube video here

👉 Explore more plant care videos on our Buddha’s Botanicals YouTube Channel - youtube.com/@BuddhasBotanicals

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November 2025

If your Red Tiger Begonia has grown wild this season, don’t worry … that’s exactly what they do. These plants grow fast, stretch toward the sun, and by fall can look tall, leggy, and ready for a good haircut. Before bringing yours indoors for winter, a proper prune will help keep it compact, healthy, and ready to regrow with strong stems and fresh leaves.

In our latest Buddha’s Botanicals video, Brad walks through how to prune a Red Tiger Begonia using the same method we use on many of our tropical shrubs; quick, simple, and beginner-friendly. If you want to see it done in real time, the full video is linked at the end of this post.

Why Prune a Red Tiger Begonia?

Red Tiger Begonias grow fast, but their stems don’t always have time to thicken and support the weight of new growth. That’s why you’ll see shoots that bend, droop, or curl downward. Pruning fixes that. When you cut the plant back, it sends out new, stronger shoots that grow upright and stay compact. These begonias are also deciduous, so yellow leaves are normal in fall and winter … simply pick them off and fresh leaves will replace them.

What You’ll Need

• A clean pair of pruning shears

• Optional: a “stick method” guide

Step 1: Trim With the Stick Method

If you’re new to pruning or the plant feels overwhelming, use the stick method. Hold a stick along the outside edge of the pot, then snip every branch that grows beyond it. You can angle the stick out a few inches to leave some shape. When you cut, always snip just above a leaf joint. That’s where a brand-new shoot will grow. Don’t cut in the middle of a bare stem … always at a joint.

Step 2: Remove Weak or Drooping Stems

Some stems get long, heavy, and bend downward. These won’t strengthen; they’ll just keep flopping. Find a strong growth point higher up the stem and cut back to it. The new growth will thicken and grow upright. If a branch shoots straight down or across the middle of the plant, remove it completely. That keeps the center open so air and light can get in.

Step 3: Shape the Height

After the sides are trimmed, look at the top. Most people keep their Red Tiger Begonia around 3-5 feet tall for indoor growing. Pick your height and give the plant a clean, straight “haircut” across the top. Each cut should be just above a leaf node. Those spots will branch and thicken as it regrows.

Step 4: Snip Untouched Growth Points

After the main pruning is done, check for growth tips you didn’t cut earlier. If you leave them, they will shoot straight out and get leggy again. Snip each one just above a leaf joint so the plant branches evenly.

Step 5: Clean Up Yellow Leaves and Old Flower Stems

Now that the hard work is done, remove yellow leaves and dried flower stems. This keeps pests away and lets the plant focus on fresh, clean growth.

The End Result

After pruning, your Red Tiger Begonia should look compact, upright, and ready to move inside for winter. Place it in a bright window and let those new shoots build strength. As they grow, the stems will thicken and the plant will take on that full, leafy Red Tiger shape again.

Watch the Full Pruning Video

Want to see exactly where to cut? Watch Brad’s full tutorial below

👉 Watch the video here on Buddha’s Botanicals YouTube Channel

👉 Explore our full Flowering Maple Playlist for more tropical plant care guides

Bonus: Want to Propagate the Cuttings?

If you want to grow new plants from your trimmings, we also have videos on how to root and propagate Red Tiger Begonia cuttings; see above playlist.

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November 2025

If your hibiscus went wild this summer, you’re not alone. These tropical shrubs love the heat, grow fast, and can easily get leggy or overgrown by fall. Before moving them inside or cutting them back for winter, a proper pruning will help your hibiscus stay strong, balanced, and ready to bloom again next season. 

In our latest Buddha’s Botanicals video, Brad walks through the full process of pruning four hibiscus plants; two smaller first-year bushes and two mature ones, showing exactly where and how to make each cut. If you prefer to watch the technique in real time, the full video is linked at the end of this post.

Why Prune a Hibiscus?

Pruning keeps your hibiscus healthy, full, and flowering. These plants bloom on new growth, so cutting them back encourages more branches and more blooms next season. It also helps remove any weak, crossed, or yellowing stems that could invite pests or disease during dormancy.
If your hibiscus has yellow or spotted leaves, don’t panic. That’s normal when daylight shortens and temps drop. Just pick off the bad ones so your plant can put its energy into healthy new leaves.

What You’ll Need:
- A clean pair of pruning shears
- Optional: gloves, especially for larger bushes
- A bright, dry workspace

Step 1: Trim Around the Pot

Start by pruning any stems that reach past the edge of the pot. This keeps your hibiscus balanced and gives you a clear view of its shape. Don’t worry about cutting off flower buds … while it’s hard to part with them, pruning now helps the plant rest and regrow stronger later.

Step 2: Cut Above a Leaf Node

When you make a cut, always snip just above a leaf node—the small bump where new shoots form. This is where your plant will branch out. On taller, lanky stems, cut back several inches to encourage fuller side growth. Think of it as giving your hibiscus a clean, even haircut.

Step 3: Open the Center

A dense hibiscus traps moisture and blocks airflow. That’s where bugs and mildew love to hide. Remove weak, crossing, or crowded stems in the center so air and light can move freely through the plant. It should feel airy and open when you’re done.

Step 4: Shape the Height

Once the sides are neat, look at the height. You can make your hibiscus rounded and full, or prune it into a taller tree shape with “lollipop” clusters of blooms at the top. For a tree-like look, leave five or six strong main stems and remove lower shoots about 8-10 inches up from the soil line. For a bushier look, leave more side shoots lower down.

Step 5: Clean Up and Let It Rest

After pruning, clear away any fallen leaves or petals around the base. Water lightly and keep your hibiscus in a warm, bright spot indoors. Over the next few weeks, new shoots will start to grow from your cuts; proof that you’ve set the stage for another season of blooms.

Watch the Full Hibiscus Pruning Video

Want to see each cut in real time? Watch Brad’s full video on pruning hibiscus below. He demonstrates the entire process … from identifying weak shoots to shaping the final canopy, so you can follow along at home.

👉 Watch the Hibiscus Bush video here on Buddha’s Botanicals YouTube Channel

👉 Watch the Hibiscus Tree/Topiary video here on Buddha’s Botanicals YouTube Channel
👉 Explore our full Hibiscus Playlist Here

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November 2025

If your Lantana went wild this summer, you’re not alone. These sun-loving plants grow fast, bloom like crazy, and by the end of the season can look more like a jungle than a houseplant. When it’s time to move your Lantana inside for winter … or into a greenhouse … it’s important to give it a good pruning first.

In our latest Buddha’s Botanicals video, Brad walks through the step-by-step process of pruning a Lantana tree, topiary, or bush so it stays compact, healthy, and ready to regrow next spring. If you prefer to see it done in real time, watch the full video at the end of this post.

Why Prune a Lantana?

Pruning keeps your Lantana strong and full. When you trim it back, you’re helping it grow new branches, more leaves, and better blooms. It also keeps the plant from getting too tall or leggy, especially before bringing it indoors.

What You’ll Need

• A clean pair of pruning shears

• A steady hand

• Optional: a stick for guidance (more on that below)

Step 1: Start with the “Stick Method”

If your Lantana is large or overgrown, the easiest way to start pruning is with the stick method. Place a stick against the edge of the pot and trim off any stems that reach beyond it. This keeps the plant’s shape balanced and stops it from spreading too wide.

If you’re comfortable pruning, you can skip the stick and freehand your cuts. The key idea: work your way around evenly and don’t be afraid to cut back more than you think.

Step 2: Cut Above a Leaf Node

Every time you cut above a leaf node (the small bump where a leaf or stem grows), you encourage two new branches to grow from that point. This creates a fuller, bushier plant.

Brad explains this in the video as he trims … snipping back long stems and removing weaker, hanging branches. If a branch is thin or droopy, it’s best to remove it completely.

Step 3: Remove Weak or Crossing Branches

Look for any branches that cross through the middle of the plant or rub against others. These can cause small wounds as they grow, which makes the plant more likely to get damaged or diseased. Snip those off cleanly so air and light can reach the center.

Also, remove any growth near the bottom of the main stem. This helps keep your Lantana shaped like a tree or topiary, rather than a tangled bush.

Step 4: Shape the Height

Once the sides are trimmed, look at the height. Brad recommends keeping the top around three feet above the pot for a well-shaped, compact look. Cut just above a leaf node wherever you shorten the plant … this is where new growth will pop out later.

Step 5: Clean Up and Get Ready for Winter

After pruning, remove any dead twigs or debris around the soil. Your Lantana should now look neat, even, and ready for winter.

If you have bright light indoors or in your greenhouse, your Lantana may keep some green leaves and even bloom through the winter. Otherwise, it will rest and come back full and vibrant in the spring.

Watch the Full Pruning Video

Want to see exactly how it’s done? Watch Brad’s full tutorial on how to prune a Lantana tree or topiary below. He demonstrates every step ... from where to make the first cut to shaping the top for perfect regrowth.

👉 Watch the video here on Buddha’s Botanicals YouTube Channel

👉 Watch our full Lantana Playlist Here

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October 2025